Friday, July 13, 2018

Population of Hamadan and the Qaragozlu tribe (Joseph Pierre Ferrier, [1845] 1857)


Population of Hamadan and the Qaragozlu tribe




The plain which surrounds this town is covered with villages, the cultivation good, and cheapness and abundance are the result. The population of the province of Hamadan may be divided into three distinct classes ― military, religious, and mixed. The first consists of the tribe* of Kara-guzloo, one of the most brave and warlike in Persia, and a branch of that of Sham-loo, which was brought from Syria, in Media, by Tamerlane ― this class is more numerous than the other two. The second is composed of an infinity of Syuds and Mollahs, who seem to have a marked predilection for this province, most of the villages in which have been given to them in fief by the government. The third class, the smallest, consists of merchants, tradesmen, workmen, and agricultural labourers. Though quite an exceptional case in Persia, the Shah has appointed a separate officer over each of these classes, fearing to put too much power in the hands of one person by intrusting to him all three. Prince Khan Lar Mirza is governor of the town, and the villages inhabited by mixed tribes. Hadji Mirza Ibrahim, a person of considerable influence, and a native of Hamadan, is at the head of the Syuds and Mollahs, et hoc genus omne, and the Sertip Ferz Ullah Khan, who plundered my countryman, is the chief of the tribe Kara-guzloo and commandant of the military force of the province. The latter consists of three regiments of infantry, commanded by his nephews Mahmood Khan, Ali Khan, and Reschid Khan; the first is married to a sister, and the second to an aunt, of Mahomed Shah. The apple of discord was thrown into the Sertip’s family with the princesses of the blood, for these, being powerful at court, take every opportunity of placing their husbands in opposition to their uncle, each hoping thereby that some successful intrigue may procure for hers the command of the tribe. It was not without design that the Shah gave these princesses in marriage to the Khans of Kara-guzloo, that tribe being one of those whose opposition he has most reason to fear; it has never joined in any foreign intrigue, and he showed his judgment in connecting himself with its chiefs.

A few days sufficed to improve my health, and I profited by this to pay a visit to my countryman M. Jacquet, who lived at the village of Chevereen, about a parasangs from the town. On the road I met Colonel Mahmood Khan, which annoyed me not a little, for we had been acquainted a long time, and I thought he might inform the authorities of my whereabouts. Deceived however by my beard and the change in my dress, he did not recognise me, though, nevertheless, he fancied he had seen me before. The same evening on my return I met him again, but this time the vagabond Ivan, who was in front of me and drunk, from the potations in which he had indulged at Chevereen, betrayed my incognito, and, when we met, the colonel reproached me for doubting his friendship, and made me promise to breakfast with him at his house at Chevereen on the following morning. Accordingly I went, and met there his brother Aman Ullah Khan, whom I had known several years, and his cousins Shefi Khan and Metel Khan. These young men are the chiefs of their tribe, agreeable and intelligent, and as brave as Roostem. Shefi Khan especially is considered a remarkable man amongst his countrymen. On the following day Mahmood Khan introduced me to his uncle Ferz Ullah Khan as an European traveller on his way to Teheran, but without mentioning my name or the object of my journey. The Sertip was a man of from forty to forty-two years of age, sickly, morose, and careworn-looking, but affecting great politeness and suavity of manner. Like his nephews he has the reputation of being brave and resolute; I found him very intelligent, and his remarks on the advantages and disadvantages of European and Persian civilization, and the comparisons he made between the, surprised me. But what astonished me more was to hear him the next minute saying the very contrary to another visitor, and appearing as narrow-minded and ignorant as any of his countrymen. When his acquaintance left, I expressed my astonishment at so sudden a change in his sentiments. “Pigeon with pigeon, falcon with falcon,” he replied: with you I was sincere; to hold the same language with a Persian would be to play the dupe. It is not that we are deficient in intelligence, but in morality. In Persia a straightforward and honest man passes for a fool, whereas roguery is take for intelligence.” Such is the opinion which Persians entertain of themselves, though few would avow it as frankly as Ferz Ullah Khan ― as to my own opinion I can but confirm his.

* Persia resembles the Highlands of Scotland, in being divided among tribes, the chiefs of which command great respect. Persia is a thoroughly aristocratic country, where high birth and polished manners are much considered. In this point it differs much from Turkey and even Russia, where the feeling is thoroughly democratic; that is to say, Turks and Russians cannot feel or understand why, because the father has been distinguished, the son should be respected.―Ed.


Ferrier J.P., Caravan journeys and wanderings in Persia, Afghanistan, Turkistan and Beloochistan; with historical notices of the countries lying between Russia and India, translated by William Jesse. ― London: John Murray, 2nd edition, 1857, pp. 39―41.

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